Choosing your watch._手表选购社区|腕表之家触屏版

老朱--- 楼主注册新人

2011-09-20 11:24

Choosing a watch in terms of brand, style, case material as well as function is a very personal thing. I really don't want to make some direct comparison, otherwise, some non-sense and angry discussion will come up very quickly and in the end of the day it is in vain. Therefore, I'd suggest that before throwing your money out, do consider some major factors that will influence your decision-making processes by yourself.
For me, I will consider at least the following factors:
1. Why do I buy this watch? An everyday beater? A weekend watch? A very formal dress watch? A sport watch? A watch just for collection?
2. Brand. Brands are both objectively and subjectively categorized in various leagues. For example, people are used to compare a Patek with a Vacheron or a Lange, but not with a Tissot or a Casio, it is because different watch companies target different market segments, thus they have different image. Brand image is a very important asset for a manufacture, the almost monopoly status of noble brand Patek Philippe has been formed through the super image of the manufacture during the past more than 150 years. Of course nothing is free, for the image, you have to pay a lot of premium. Is the brand image important for you as a consumer? You should make your choice.

老朱--- 注册新人沙发

2011-09-20 11:24

3. Style. Round case is the most common and "safe" choice. The JLC Reverso case could, nevertheless, turn out very elegant and attractive on some people. Try the watch and decide which case style suits you.
4. Case material. Some people like white metal, such as PT, white gold and stainless steel. White metal is understated and elegant. For the others is the pink gold, yellow gold warmer and richer. Which material is better for you? Only you know the answer. I personally prefer silvery over golden color.
5. Value keeping. Resale value is the thing that most collectors consider. Generally, Patek Philippe keeps its value very well (70%* of its international list for a Calatrava) following by Lange (60%*). Most models from VC, AP and Breguet keep their value relatively worse. Some limited models from AP Offshore keep very good value. JLC keeps its value similiar to AP and VC. I'd like to draw your attention that value keeping should not be the only criterion on watch picking. There are millions of better ways to invest your money. (*based on subjective but long-term observation.)
6. Service fee. It could be very expensive to have your watch serviced. A routine service for a simple Calatrava or Lange costs around 400-500 EUR. For complications, you should expect doubled budget. Some other lower end brands are cheaper to be serviced. If money won't be a problem for you, please forget this factor.

老朱--- 注册新人板凳

2011-09-20 11:25

In my very personal view, I'd buy a steel higher-end watch than a gold lower-end watch. For example: I perfer a steel JLC to a gold Longines. You know why? Gold doesn't make a Longines a Patek, but a steel JLC is still a JLC!
Generally, Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantion, Audemars Piguet and Breguet have the best reputation in terms of hand finishing, styling and history. These nobel brands can be considered in the same league, although Patek is untill today still the clearly number one. A. Lange & Söhne has a very good chance to further develop its already excellent reputation.
JLC, one of very few true manufactures, is considered as a very good value in the higher hologerie world. The finishing of JLCs, nevertheless, are to be improved. You will find a significant difference in the finishing level between a normal JLC and a normal model from above mentioned big five. I like JLC personally and Reverso is the face of the JLC.
Besides, Chopard makes incredible good LUC cal. 1.96, very much recomended. Blanpain and Glasshütte Original are, if I am allowed to say, "cheaper" substitutes for Breguet and A. Lange & Söhne respectively. I am personally not going to save that money if I am already so far away out.
Rolex is a reliable daily wear. A good watch I don't really like, but the vintage Rolex is more beautiful in my opinion.
Feel free to give your opinions.
(I am sorry for the possible understanding problems due to the language, but I am not home now.)