If one compares the pictures of Glashuette Original movements in older catalogues with those printed in the recent ones, the different movement designations are immediately evident: The older watches are equipped with the movement cal. 10-30, whereas the newer ones have the cal. 39. However, aside from the drastically improved optical finish, the two movements seem to be the same: the same wheels and the same screws seem to be located in the same places on both movements. So where are the differences that justify that new designation, or is this just a try to cheat, to pretend a new movement where there is none? Let’s have a look at the history of these two movements: When the communist German Democratic Republic found its end as a souvereign state, the state-owned “Glashuetter Uhrenbetrieb” was busy developing a new selfwinding movement. Solid it should be, and efficient.
Before the works could be finished, the company was sold to the French movement manufacturer France Ebauches SA. This company tried to save itself from bankruptcy by means of German know-how and the cheap labour in Eastern Germany. The new selfwinding movement should compete with the Swiss movements produced by ETA, and was therefore developed specifically with a high momentum and maximum universality in mind. Before the short-time owner of the Glashuette watch manufactory had to develop a new movement, they found already a good movement in Glashuette: In 1978, the V.E.B. ("Volkseigener Betrieb" = People's owned company) Glashuetter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB) brought out their last completely new construction, the cal. 11-26, dubbed Spezichron.
This Spezichron was modernized in several steps under control of first the France Ebauches, then the Treuhand-Anstalt, and finally of Heinz W. Pfeifer, until it found its way as cal. 10-30 into the new watches of Glashuette Original. Under control of the Treuhandanstalt, which, from 1990 to 1994, took over the former East German state-owned companies and sought to bring them into the private sector, the movement cal. 10-30 was completed and used in a new and very cheap line of watches after 1993.
Spezichron and cal. 11-27 photos courtesy of Herbfarm This movement was the successor of the popular "Spezimatic", which was produced from 1964 until 1980. Compared to the Spezimatic, the new Spezichron was smaller and faster: 28,800 A/h, while the Spezimatic only had 18,000. With that movement, the East German GUB could compete with the common movements of Swiss origins. The Spezichron was solid and accurate. Additionally, a version with weekday display was made; it was designated cal. 11-27.
A year later, in 1994, the company was bought by Heinz W. Pfeifer, and immediately the cal. 10-30 was thoroughly revised in order to equip high-class watches. More than 60 changes were made, until the movement, which internally was designated cal. 10-30/2, was used for the then new “Klassik”-line. However, the movement’s potential for refinement was exhausted. It was used in all self-winding Glashuette Original watches, including the chronographs, which added a chrono module to the base movement.
Yet there were plans for more complications, which could not be based on the trusted 10-30 movement; a new development was necessary. However, it was neither economically feasible nor desirable to have completely new cases and dials produced for the new base movement. Therefore, the starting point of the effort was the condition, that the new movement had the same dimensions, as well as the location of important parts, such as the winding stem, must be the same as in the old 10-30. Additionally, the planned new complication modules should have enough space on the movement’s front.
All elements of the 10-30 movement, which were tried and reliable, were taken over into the new construction, above all the complete escapement was transferred. Even these parts were refined, however, with the addition of a swan neck adjust
Let’s have a look at the history of these two movements: When the communist German Democratic Republic found its end as a souvereign state, the state-owned “Glashuetter Uhrenbetrieb” was busy developing a new selfwinding movement. Solid it should be, and efficient.
Before the works could be finished, the company was sold to the French movement manufacturer France Ebauches SA. This company tried to save itself from bankruptcy by means of German know-how and the cheap labour in Eastern Germany. The new selfwinding movement should compete with the Swiss movements produced by ETA, and was therefore developed specifically with a high momentum and maximum universality in mind. Before the short-time owner of the Glashuette watch manufactory had to develop a new movement, they found already a good movement in Glashuette: In 1978, the V.E.B. ("Volkseigener Betrieb" = People's owned company) Glashuetter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB) brought out their last completely new construction, the cal. 11-26, dubbed Spezichron.
This Spezichron was modernized in several steps under control of first the France Ebauches, then the Treuhand-Anstalt, and finally of Heinz W. Pfeifer, until it found its way as cal. 10-30 into the new watches of Glashuette Original. Under control of the Treuhandanstalt, which, from 1990 to 1994, took over the former East German state-owned companies and sought to bring them into the private sector, the movement cal. 10-30 was completed and used in a new and very cheap line of watches after 1993.
Spezichron and cal. 11-27 photos courtesy of Herbfarm
This movement was the successor of the popular "Spezimatic", which was produced from 1964 until 1980. Compared to the Spezimatic, the new Spezichron was smaller and faster: 28,800 A/h, while the Spezimatic only had 18,000. With that movement, the East German GUB could compete with the common movements of Swiss origins. The Spezichron was solid and accurate. Additionally, a version with weekday display was made; it was designated cal. 11-27.
A year later, in 1994, the company was bought by Heinz W. Pfeifer, and immediately the cal. 10-30 was thoroughly revised in order to equip high-class watches. More than 60 changes were made, until the movement, which internally was designated cal. 10-30/2, was used for the then new “Klassik”-line. However, the movement’s potential for refinement was exhausted. It was used in all self-winding Glashuette Original watches, including the chronographs, which added a chrono module to the base movement.
Yet there were plans for more complications, which could not be based on the trusted 10-30 movement; a new development was necessary. However, it was neither economically feasible nor desirable to have completely new cases and dials produced for the new base movement. Therefore, the starting point of the effort was the condition, that the new movement had the same dimensions, as well as the location of important parts, such as the winding stem, must be the same as in the old 10-30. Additionally, the planned new complication modules should have enough space on the movement’s front.
All elements of the 10-30 movement, which were tried and reliable, were taken over into the new construction, above all the complete escapement was transferred. Even these parts were refined, however, with the addition of a swan neck adjust
终于找到了
这东西从板路上说和ETA 28系没啥联系。
当年很多表都是36小时到40小时的能储，原因是过去一周就休息一天。
最近看了你对机芯研究很深， 我想知道 那这些没有用硅游丝的手表， 怎么来保证防磁的呢。。
同时历峰集团没有硅游丝， 他们的游丝撒情况啊
朋友，你问到了一个历峰集团会原地爆炸的问题……
当然是不防磁的啦，哈哈哈。
要防磁，就是古典手段，用一个软铁（不能是钢），或者叫 生铁 的内胆，做一个磁力隔绝的容器，把机芯包在内部，这样来解决。我平时存储备份数据用的移动硬盘，就是放在这样一个生铁盒子里的，隔绝磁场。偶尔出门带着备用的表，也是这个盒子。
历峰集团之前在名士的那个120小时能储的机芯上用了一次硅游丝，然后被人律师函警告了，然后马上第二批出货就改回了传统游丝。因为硅游丝有专利问题，理论上就那几家可以用。这件事，你有兴趣的话，可以去试着搜索一下之前名士的宣传，互联网是有记忆的。
部分厂商走了迂回路线，就是游丝还是传统的，但是擒纵叉和擒纵棘轮这两个部件改成硅的。效果不如硅游丝好，但是比没有强。目前来看，历峰集团的话，就是积家的新一代的70小时能储的三针机芯用了这个方案。
名士那个事情我知道。
只是在想， VC 和朗格 是如何破局的。。。
这位朋友，你又问了一个问不得的问题啊……
VC压根就没有破局，号称防磁的纵横四海，特别容易受磁，我以前有一对纵横四海（蓝面男表，粉面带钻女表），都是受磁到上天，天天小心着还是能受磁，防磁战力不如海鸥，你可以想象一下是多么的弱鸡。
至于朗格，人家主打金表，设定的使用场景就是远离一切IT……
这两天看了不少你的帖子和回复， 受教了。
我在想入一块36 37的表~~ 看了小朗格1，萧邦LUC 那个小三针， 还看了 格罗斯曼。
但是回过头来想了一下， 这个好像和我平时的生活习惯（比较大大咧咧，带手表骑车，带表运动，穿衣风格等）都不怎么符合~
犹豫中， 也看中过 GP 桂冠的38mm 黄铜款。
反过来想想， 不得不感叹， 现在平时佩戴的劳游艇的耐操程度。
这个36mm尺寸的表，楼主是什么场景佩戴？如果是上班，无呵护随便瞎带，我觉得狗牙圈DJ36是完美。对，我，资深劳力士黑，我确实是这么给你推荐的。你可以换一个优雅点的橡胶表带，来和你其他的劳力士表款相区别。相信我，皮表带或者橡胶表带的DJ36，其实是很搭的，你试试。
肖邦LUC那个也是优雅和打磨都是第一等，然而你要防磁防水啥的一概欠奉。
或者就是PP 5196小三针的二手表，就是没背透，比较遗憾。
最后选择就是vintage了，34-36是有很多古董表的，毕竟60年代的话，这个就是正经男表尺寸，几乎都是这个尺寸区间的。
啊啊，对，性价比大帝天梭，最近PRX出了36mm的！！
容我想想， 不知道PP还会出37尺寸的表哇。。。 也许这个几年是不会了。
很多尺寸都是38 39的了。
考虑过 7234R ，也试带过 宝珀的飞行员系列 36mm的那个尺寸。 也试过朗格1815 36mm的尺寸。。。
但是格罗斯曼那种手动的止逆器的阻尼感觉和声音， 我太欢喜了。
准备这个几个月找找，年底前入一块不知道什么鬼。。 哈哈哈
长期关注着 龟吉 JACKROAD 宝石广场~
1815好像确实是有36mm的，现在不知道停产了没有。1815 36mm在我看来就是和5196 37mm互换的竞品，都行，各有各的风格。当然，朗格那个能储更长一些。
格罗斯曼是个小众玩意，一般说来，你需要碰运气，不是你要说有二手或者并行新品出来，遍地就有，时不常冒出来一两块，这样。
要不你就是看看宝石广场的vintage分区？
格罗斯曼 宝石广场有不少~
Czapek 南极系列 怎么看啊~
宝石广场上来的格罗斯曼我观察40mm这路的居多啊，小号的不多见。
Czapek南极我之前在Yoshida全款（300多万日元，具体多少记不清了）定了一只Yoshida限定款。然后等了一年半不交货，说让补交100万日元再说。我感觉要么是Yoshida使诈，要么是Czapek这个牌子的老板想钱想疯了，我没跟你要一年半的这300多万日元的利息我就够可以的了，还跟我说要加钱？果断要求取消订单，退款。
实物我看了，机芯看着不错，属于类似于朗海涅的骨架夹板风格，珍珠陀。表壳表链也不错。就是老板为人有点次。
之后我拿着退的钱，去买了一个绿面的GP压惊，已经释然了。我现在就是等明年5968A纳品了，还有看看10月17日pp新出的潜水款啥样。
我偶然看见了GMT店里的这个朗海涅运动款，40mm，不符合你的大小要求，不过机芯的风格也许你会喜欢？
https://www.gmt-j.com/item/3717016729425
（不知道你能不能打开哈）
我的钟表知识，主要就俩来源，一个是各种英文论坛英文网站，比如NakedWatchMaker这类，还一个就是钟表原理科普教育书籍。最后的补强就是自己去搜索各种机芯的disassembly文章，最好带图的那种，自己理解每个不同机芯的结构原理，看懂了为止，来回在脑内模拟工作过程，这样。我是理工科出来的，自己还喜欢折腾遥控模型车，自己组装之类的，所以这类走齿轮传动组的比较容易理解。
另外，我早年间还在爱表族当过一段时间casio版的版主……黑历史啊都是。任何一个PP爱好者都是casio起步的，哈哈哈哈哈。
话说朗海涅的两个创始人都离开了，一个就去搞德国统芯去了，这款用的就是 那个机芯。
我每周都会把东京几大并行店的喜欢牌子有撒款式过一遍的， 嘿嘿。
是的，朗海涅的两个创始人都不在了，后面怎么发展其实是个未知数。这其实也是我对年轻的初创品牌（包括所谓制表人品牌，都一样）的顾虑，就是中长期的安定性。罗杰杜彼刚开始的时候是走PP风格老钱风格，现在大家都看到了，夜店蹦迪黑人嘻哈说唱风，我反正绝对不买。之前买了初期罗杰杜彼的表的人，不知道怎么想。
要不你再看看那个黄铜面的38毫米的桂冠吧，好歹机芯自动坨是金的，高级版。
我现在基本上已经偃旗息鼓，经济不好，我老婆说pp以外的不要买了……汗
不好说今后怎么样，毕竟能换一次主人就能换两次，后面指不定会发生什么变化。我们现在也没有那么多预算广泛涉猎了，我就负责看着别人买买买，我看图片就行，哈哈。
另外帕玛强尼的新Tonda PFC 36mm 也在我考虑范围内， 只是看到另外一个帖子说，表扣脱开手表掉落—_—
啊？帕玛强尼还有这种操作？不过，确实帕玛强尼的那个珍珠陀机芯适合于做小号正装表，还有最近新出的那个手卷的。我因为已经有一个PP 6127G了，所以暂时36mm的这个空档已经解决了。而且我还有一个必杀技，就是趁我家女王不注意的时候，偷着带她的7300A Twenty-4，那个表圈碎钻碎的很，远观和DJ36的狗牙圈没啥区别，可以男士带。
那就不如买FPJ了，那个也是贵金属机芯。
6127就是PP版本的朗萨克森，多么特别，而且是朗格一辈子不会出的奇葩颜色，哈哈哈。